could mean arcing in the wiring if the flash and click are random, or could mean......what everyone will tell you....that the car needs service. Low fluid levels? ie oil or tranny fluid?
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Spam Filtered (ID:3479677)
Tell me what are great brands out of these brands that are not crap?
Craftsman, Kobalt, Allan, Gear Wrench, Husky? Please give me some great names. I have a great surprise for my boyfriend on his birthday. :-) Just don't want to get crap tools!
Craftman hand wrenches, sockets, etc.
Dewalt cordless tools, drills, sawsall etc...
craftsman, makita, millwalkee, dewalt ... and skil only if you need a skilsaw (circular saw)
I usually went for the cheapest, until I saw the tools a contractor hired at my workplace had. They were from DeWalt, and I was impressed with how quiet and steady they were, a lot less vibrations than the ones I have. The guy said they were very reliable too.
For everything rotative, Dremmel is an excellent brand; they use very precise bearings and work very smoothly, quite certainly the best choice for precision work.
Skil's only advantage is to be cheap. Only buy this brand if you're not planning to use certain tools enough to justify investing much in them. Their bearings are rough and they'll break after a short time.
Black & Decker is pretty alright, not top notch but good enough for any domestic use. The ones I have have served through many years of moderate use and could be confused with brand new ones. And they offer a lifetime warranty they are said to honor as promised.
Sorry to say but finding made in USA tools is tough.
For hand tools such as sockets,wrenches etc. I would suggest a brand of tools called *Wright. They are made in Ohio and we sell them at our Contractor supply house. They are guaranteed.
Simply google (Wright tools).
As far as power tools you probably won't find a lot of them made in USA. Most are made elsewhere. Even Ridgid tools have come out with a line for Home depot, but they are imports.
The best way to be sure is to look on the package or ask the sales person where they were made.
Klein tools are all made in USA except for their ironworkers ratchet. It says made in Japan right on the head of it.
Milwaukee still has some power tools that are made in USA.
Good Luck
Can't beat Craftsman and Kobalt. Both have great lifetime warranties on their hand tools. I prefer Koblat out of the two.
craftsman is best because if it breakes they will replace for free. Kobalt screw drivers I got broke the first day I used them, I do appliance repair everyday and need trustworthy tool.
I've worked with tools all my life. Even as a small boy, I remember handing my Daddy his craftsman ratchet and sockets. He STILL has them. The same ones. I can't count how many engines those things have taken apart and put back together.
Now, with that being said: I realize that the tools made in 1950 are a HELL of alot different than the ones made today. I am an electrician by trade, and I will take nothing for my KLEIN tools. Or my GREENLEE's. I quess the best advise that I would give you is this:
If it has a lifetime warranty, you can't go wrong.
Craftsman: yes
Klein: yes
Greenlee: yes
Husky: Idk
Koalt: yes
Allan: Never heard of it
Gear Wrench is the only brand that you named that , IN MY OPINION, I'd stay away from. (personal experience)
GL!
Snap on, Mat-co, Crescent, many great brands. But when it comes to cordless tools(saws,drills) I suggest you stay away from Craftsman.
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Spam Filtered (ID:3479677)
They canceled it?!?!?! The only reason I can see is that they are very backlogged right now. I don't want to stress you more, but if that were it, they would have told you. Why don't you call them? I know you'll probably be on hold for a long time, but, hey, it's worth it!
You CAN call them, and if you e-mail them, they WILL write back. Just do SOMETHING, don't just sit back and do nothing. Hope for the best!
It could be anything... My wife had an interview cancelled because there was s threat made against the US embassy. (So they closed up the whole place).
Your best bet is to ask to reschedule it.
you are doomed and will be deported. HAHAHA...
just kidding. hehehe....
Yea , I wouldnt worry about it . Unless there is something they learned about you that has you worried . You are not a terrorist , I hope?
This is a diplomatic way for them to say,since we are so understaffed and underpaid (yeah right) we have postponed your interview because something else more important (for them) has come up.Don't bother calling them,they won't answer. Don't bother e-mailing them,they won't answer either.Get yourself an attorney to contact them on your behalf, you'll see how fast they start to move when you do this.
What does that mean?. Hopefully your doing things legally, and they didn't find something. Good luck
Your interviewer has probably become ill, and they have to reschedule. Don't worry about it, just think of your interviewer dropping a fat load in his briefs next time you get anxious. ;P
"Unforseen circumstances" is a polite way of saying "something unrelated to your interview has happened to make us reschedule your interview and it's none of your business what happened."
Don't worry about it.
Reschedule.
go to the regional offices site on the uscis.gov site and call and ask. could be weather related. been lots of bad weather lately denver, fl, seattle.
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Spam Filtered (ID:3479677)
Some locktite got in the ratcheting mechanism and of course it now does not work.
I dipped it in carbureter cleaner and freed it up some. I can now hear some ratcheting sounds but the ratchet still will not catch.
Any suggestions?
heat it up with a torch, a small propane torch works for me, for a few secs. that always frees up locktite
Nitro Methane might, it works on some super glue's.
see if anybody in your area carries "SNAP" brand carb cleaner,that stuff will eat anything
I found some once at Dollar General of all places....Hey dodge man,you got any ideas?
I hope its a graftsman wrench - take it to sears and trade it for another one. If not
Get a Quart can of MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) frome Lowes pour it in a GLASS (anything else will disolve) and let the wrench sit in it over night, over several days try to work it loose. Get as little on your hands as possible.
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Spam Filtered (ID:3479677)
Hi
I am not to useful for a immediate answer but...If you go to this web sight:
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tools/msg0714263614781.html
You will see other like you have that had similar problems in to what you are having and this web sight may get you a better answer.
I hope this help...
Contact your local Sears service center:
The service rep can show/explain how to do it.
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Spam Filtered (ID:3479677)
There is no access to the pipes without taking a tile wall down - is there any other solutions that may be possible?
I have contacted the landlord, and am awaiting their response.
It depends on whether you have a faucet that has washers or one that is washerless. If it's an old faucet chances are it has washers but if it's newer than 15 years it may not. If you can get the mfr. and model number go to their website to find out which type. If washerless all you have to do is replace the cylinder which will come with instructions. Note: If the faucet is mfg. by Moen they should furnish the parts to you at no cost, including shipping. If the faucet has washers you will most likely need to replace the seats first and then the washers themselves (both available from where you buy your seat tool). So you will need a seat tool from your local hardware store or home supply (not expensive). I would buy the best seats (chrome or stainless steel as opposed to brass which doesn't last as long). You will also need a caulking material to seal the threads. After you turn off the water to the faucet remove the (each) handle and then with any of several standa
rd tools (i.e. crescent wrench) unscrew and remove (pull out) the cylinder from each side (hot & cold). On each cylinder you will see the worn washer (most likely held in place by a brass or SS phillips screw). Then insert the proper end of the seat tool (which is most likely L shaped with a different graduated configuration on each end) until the proper configuration fits comfortably but snuggly in the seat. Turn the tool (with force if necessary) to remove the old seat and discard it. With a cloth or small brush clean the old caulk from the threads that held the old seat. Put some new caulk on the threads of the new seat and reverse the process to install. (Be careful not to scar the new seat.) Then remove the old washer and using the original screw replace it with a new one. Reverse the original process to finish the job. Note: If the old seat is recessed in the wall you might need to use a socket wrench to remove the cylinder. Give the bill for your expenses to
your landlord. He will thank you. Cost for your new found knowledge: Priceless.
Landlord should fix that. However if you have to, turn off the water outside. Take the guts of one of the faucets to the hardware store with you. There are kits with new washers and o-rings. Or individual parts.
My deal with my landlord is, I fix minor repairs and he reimburses me.
This repair is not a high skill level, and can give a good, I did it myself feeling when it's done.
Good luck.
the faucet nedd new washrs or be replaced not the pipes
Colt has it right. Shut off the main supply lie outside, dismantle the faucet and replace the washers/o-rings. No problem.
My guess is the seats or seals are shot.
Your landlord needs to get these fixed.
Wait until the landlord contacts you back and deduct the extra expense of the water bill from your rent.
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Spam Filtered (ID:3479677)
I heard its either by a ''Allen Wrench'' or you twist it off like a top off of a bottle.. Which is it??
You did not give engine size? This instructions are for a v6
REMOVAL
WARNING: Before servicing the steering column the airbag system must be disarmed. Failure to do so may result in accidental deployment of the airbag and possible personal injury.
1. Disconnect the negative (ground) cable from the battery.
2. Remove the steering column opening cover.
3. Remove the steering column opening reinforcement (1).
4. Disconnect the AutoStick wiring connector (1).
5. Remove the wiring tie strap (2) securing the AutoStick wiring to the column
6. Unsnap the gear shift lever boot (2) from the cluster bezel (3). Slide the boot up the gear shift lever (1), away from the bezel.
7. Remove the gear shift lever mounting screw (1).
8. Slide the gear shift lever (2) out of the column shift mechanism and remove the lever with AutoStick wiring.
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Spam Filtered (ID:3479677)
I have not used it, but the idea that is based on is sound.
You must have a fulcrum to gain a mechanical advantage. That's why it grabs two lug nuts at a time. If it only grabed one, it wouldn't matter what gearing design was used, the operator would have to provide the final torque to the nut.
I can see where there might be some issues in using it due to needing to fit on two nuts at once.
In addition, I'd be concerned about the lateral force applied to the wheel bolt that acts as the fulcrum. You don't want to damage those in any way, since they hold your wheels on the vehicle.
Never heard of it. Is there a site that will show it?
OK, now I've seen it. It seems like an easier way to change a tire BUT be careful tightening the nuts back on. You could easily over torque them.
Have you got an internet link to it to post?
Why would a guy buy this. Put your back into it!
Made in china.....It's crap.
http://www.smarthome.com/9280.html
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Spam Filtered (ID:3479677)
I assume you mean the harmonic balancer bolt right? I take a torch and heat towards the end of the bolt head but not so much on the balancer. All it takes is a little heat an it should spin right out with a good impact gun
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Spam Filtered (ID:3479677)
ONLY take slack out in the straight ahead posistion. And a 1982 car has other issues that may cause slack. Subframe mounts loose steering gear, tie rods, lower ball joints.
I agree with John, first make sure that there is the problem and if there is than just slack the nut and turn but only a bit, be careful when you tight it back. You might get over tight steering.
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Spam Filtered (ID:3479677)
The STIs should have a hidden Allen screw under the break hood. You will see a indent on the plastic right above where the rubber hood sits. You do this from the top side of the lever housing. I forget the size Allen, but you can slide it underneath the hood and wiggle a little to catch the Allen bolt in there. If you can't seem to find it, roll up the hood and you will be able to see it's location. Once you know where it is you'll be fine, it just seems hard for me to explain it. So I hope I was clear enough.
allen screw under hood
MR is right. I just put ultegra on one bike and dura ace on another
on mine you undo the brakes so the cable goes slack, and that lets you remove the hood and then get to the clamp with a little screwdriver. you know that all shimano stuff has tech docs on the web? also, i reckon bikeforums.net or sheldon brown (search on google) are prolly better for qs like these.
g'luck!
What they said. Go here and you can look at the parts diagrams and installation instructions for most components: http://techdocs.shimano.com/techdocs/index.jsp
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Spam Filtered (ID:3479677)
172 years ago, spacemonkeyies invaded so you'd ask this question
Over twenty years ago. That socket on the bottom is so you can insert the tool to unjam it.
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Spam Filtered (ID:3479677)
Well, the easiest way is if the new shifter already came with the wire part of the cable attached. . .
Clip or pull off the little aluminum cover on the derailleur end of the wire.
Loosen the bolt that holds the wire to the derailleur.
Well, at this point, you're home free, because the wire will now come out of the cable jacket.
But, if your new shifter didn't come with the wire attached, see Shimano.com and there'll be plenty of directions in PDF form on how to get your shifter cable into your new shifter.
Grips are removed with a spray bottle of water.
Run a flat blade screwdriver up under the grip pretty darn far and then fill up the space with water. Pop the screwdriver out and then work the grip off.
Grips are replaced by painting the inside and the handlebar end with really cheap hair spray (no conditioner!!) such as Final Net "The Most" or 84 cent hair spray from the dollar store. Spray into grip, spray onto bar. Sling extra out of grip, and pop it on. The alcohol content will dry up at some point and the old grip will stick right on there like magic.
You need Metric Allen wrenches because U.S. Standard will destroy bike bolts. You also need an ice-pick if you will be installing new cable jacket. After a new cable jacket is cut, it is too flat, so make the inside of the end that is now flat, round again with the icepick.
Lastly, tug the cable into place and re-install into the derailleur just the same way the old one came out. Don't forget the pretty aluminum cap over the end of the cable.
Oh, and I almost forgot. Yeah. Before you clamp down the cable for the rear derailleur, put the adjustment collar all the way in, otherwise it won't have enough room to make up for cable slack.
For the front derailleur, lift it to the middle chainring and then jam a stick, tinker toy, or bit of wooden dowel into the paralell-o-gram to keep it from springing back to the "grandma" gear--so that when you install the cable, and then remove the stick, the cable is tighter and it is almost already in the right place, and adjustment for cable slack is easier.
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Spam Filtered (ID:3479677)
On the bottom of the motor in the center
Switch the disposer off, and try manually turning the blades with a disposer wrench or Allen wrench by turning a bottom bolt located on the bottom and outside of the disposer’s canister.
Under neath, in the center. Feel with your fingers and locate the hole for the allen wrench.
I just use a broom handle.
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Spam Filtered (ID:3479677)
Possibly cornwell tools.
Sears Online maybe
I know what you're talking about, I picked one up at a department store in Japan and it's one of my favorite tools. I don't know the name brand and couldn't tell you how to get one. I know that doesn't help much, but they are out there somewhere.
no sorry
Craftsman makes several, take a look at their website.
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Spam Filtered (ID:3479677)
Can anyone tell me about the Flex head Wrenches?
Are they tight or do the flop around?
Are they as strong as regular?
Do you think they are worth the extra money?
Ya they are made by K-D which is not a #1 brand but reliable. Most heads have a detent to keep them from wobbling.
If you are going to use them daily at work they would be OK. If you just want a set and really only need a certain size go get that one and save money.
Yes, they are some of the best out there. Do not go cheap unless you want a cheap product. They are woth what you will pay for them.
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Spam Filtered (ID:3479677)
